Thursday, June 27, 2013

Phnom Penh

Traveling is always an adventure full of uncertainty and excitement. But hopping on a plane for western Europe feels a lot different than hopping on a plane to Southeast Asia.

Cleveland to Houston to Moscow to Singapore -- four flights and almost 48 housr later I finally landed in Cambodia.

In the general Southeast Asia circuit Cambodia is not always high on the list of things to do. Years of war, pain, and incredible loss have left its mark on this quiet country. Outside of the obvious attraction of Angkor Wat, backpackers head for Thailand and Laos -- do the trek through Vietnam -- and it can be easy to skip Cambodia. But you shouldn't.

Phnom Penh is an overflowing swarm of emotions. It is poverty and loss atop immense beauty and unbelieveable kindness. It is every kind of food you can imagine, endless markets, and the hustle of the riverside against the calm presence of the Royal Palace. The gawky younger sister to the metropolis of Bangkok, six months here and you could start to scratch the surface. But most people don't have six months, and if you've got to do Phnom Penh in a couple of days there are some musts to attend to.

First, grab a tuk tuk driver for the day. Accept now that you will be offered a tuk tuk every 15 seconds for the remainder of your visit. Unless you actually need one...at which point you will inevitably be stranded. So find a good one who knows his way around (or atleast has a sheet with all the major sites on it that you can point to) and stick to him -- I personally recommend Vireak who is Phnom Penh's Number 1 Tuk Tuk driver and speaks perfect english (can be reached at 012456744).

There are some major sites in Phnom Penh that you should try to visit -- in no particular order:
  1. Royal Palace: a few dollars for an entrance fee and be sure to cover your knees and shoulders. Wander through the palace grounds and take a moment to enjoy the quite sanctuary of the palace and the pagodas. In case you are like me and have zero common sense -- do not approach the monkeys. They bite. After Royal Palace head down to the riverside for some food and drinks at one of the millions of restaurants. Check out the balcony at the FCC or any of the rooftop bars along the riverside to get a great view of the city. If you don't need a big meal then head down to Blue Pumpkin for an always needed ice cream break!
  2. Wat Phnom: Built on the hill the city was named after it only costs a dollar to tromp through this wat and it gives some great views of the city. Beware the Gangster Monkeys!
  3. Tuol Sleng and the Killing Fields: prepare yourself for a harrowing couple of hours and visit these memorials of the horrors that occurred in Cambodia during the 1970s. After the sombering experience of Tuol Sleng -- head over to The Boddhi Tree for some amazing curry or a tasty fruit shake.
  4. Markets! Central Market, Russian Market, Night Market -- the markets are neverending in Phnom Penh and always a great place to enjoy the hustle and bustle while picking up a few suveniers or gifts. Always haggle and watch your purse but definitely worth the trip. Russian Market is particularly good for food!
  5. National Museum: Take a few hours to wander through the National Museum and lay some jasmine at the feet of a shiva or two. The building is just as impressive as its contents so definitely worth a look. Right down the road from the National Museum is Friends restaurant where you can have some of the best food in town while helping to support a great cause.
If you've got the time take a day trip out into the countryside or grab a riverboat for a sunset cruise. Buy a drink and you've got your pick of any hotel pool in the city.

For a night out Riverside and Latin Quarter are always a great choice. Katy Peri's pizza sets up shop near all the bars off Street 51 -- you haven't lived until you've had pizza from a tuk tuk. For an incredibly authentic Khmer meal check out Sovanni's on Street 21. Warung Bali on Street 178 -- by far my favorite restaurant in town the chicken satay is one of the best things I've ever tasted and I've never paid more then $4 for more food and cans of Angkor than I need. At some point in traveling...you just need a pizza -- when the desire for pizza strikes there is a little italian place called Luigis that is by far the best pizza in town. Street 308 right at the end of Street 29.

This is making me hungry. I'm off to dine again before heading to Siem Reap for the weekend!